EDitorial ± 29-Mar-2025

Light Lunches: Pinch, Kelsale

In January 2024 I consumed one of those "Where chefs go to grab a bite" articles where Tom Payne, straight out of the Aldeburgh version of Ratatouille, mentioned that he'd go for "a black coffee and a cruller" at a Suffolk cafe entirely unknown to me. I've had that tab open on my iPad browser ever since.

Super sunny Saturday saw me and the belt-drive Boardman on the 09:16 Ipswich loco heading to Lowestoft (previously); this time, though, off at the Detectorists station at Saxmundham. Brief photo opportunity by the crinkle-crankle wall, a pleasant out-of-town trip to enquire about Kelsale Hall, and back to Waitrose for a freebie BYOC coffee. Missed the partial eclipse while eating a banana and doing a sudoku, then set off on the 2.5 mile ride to Kelsale.

Along one of Andy's quiet lanes (sh!) on Lowes Hill, right at a T-junction with an easy-to-miss sign labelled Pinch, and finally left into a busy gravelled area. Here, absolute middle of nowhere, has materialised a black barn beamed in from Shoreditch. And here's Andy in the (t)rusty VW with his post-op cowboy hat. So, when I looked up Pinch way back, they were selling hot drinks and post doughnuts only, far as I could tell. Now, though, there's savoury options in the form mostly of pizza:

  • tomato, chorizo, parmesan, hot honey, red onion & green chilli
  • tomato, pine nuts, Maple Farm kale pesto & watercress
  • alouette potato, rosemary, parmesan
  • Westcombe mortadella & Wells Alpine sandwich

We shared the chorizo and potato slices -- pretty thin, pretty tasty -- and a chunky pork sausage and cheese sandwich. Shame to have it indoors on such a day but the driver has to watch his UV levels. Out of the ordinary "premium soda" by Something & Nothing, him the cucumeber, me the yuzu. Perhaps needless to say, all very lovely. Everyone's wired, nobody's tired.

Today's sugary selection included: original glazed, honey and bacon, cinnamon sugar, maple & pecan, coffee & hazelnut, plus non-doughnut options such as the St Choux, brookie, and Guinness cake with rhubarb and curd. Yes, we had one or more of these, and yes, they were flippin' gorgeous with a Spitalfields-worthy flat white on the side. If you can find it, get out there. I'm closing that tab.

If it was a car -- convertible from Cinch.
If they were passing by -- Noel Fielding.